Must, the watch concept that relaunched Cartier internationally
In 1973, Cartier created a collection that would completely redefine the brand's image internationally: the Must watches. Conceived by Robert Hocq in collaboration with Alain-Dominique Perrin, the House's general manager at the time, this line would not be just a collection of watches but a true business concept.
Cartier developed this concept at the end of the 1960s, when the brand was going through an unprecedented bad patch in its history. The creator first had the idea to restore its reputation by offering a range of luxurious and modern lighters. The idea is to rejuvenate the brand by offering more accessible products but faithful to its high-end codes and values. The ambition is also not to propose any licensing contract: Cartier wishes to keep the control on its new piece, from creation to distribution.
The Cartier lighters quickly became a great success. The House then took up their development strategy to make them a full-fledged concept for its watches, but also its perfumes and leather goods.
Must watches, lines that are always in demand
Although the first Must watches reinvigorated the House of Cartier, it wasn't until 1977 that the concept was truly successful. That year, Cartier launched the Must vermeil (silver covered in gold) watches. Both chic and affordable, this model became a best-seller for the famous jeweler.
Cartier then took up the Must concept to launch (or relaunch) its most emblematic collections: Tank, Santos, Panthère, Pasha are all presented under the Must de Cartier umbrella. What they had in common was to offer younger quartz movement watches, more in tune with the times but still just as prestigious.
In 1997, when the brand was definitely relaunched, Cartier stopped producing the different Must lines and brought the whole production back under the Cartier brand - its new timepieces were equipped with mechanical movements.
Today, Cartier's Must watches are still highly prized by lovers of fine watchmaking. Find several used models on Cresus !